Some hiking trips seemed doomed from the beginning, while
others start with a bang and never let up. Naturally, we prefer the latter
description. Our experience on a trip to Steamboat Rock State Park near Grand
Coulee Dam reflected this.
Starting early on a Saturday morning in April, we decided
to head up the Yakima Canyon. Soon after entering the canyon, a coyote crossed
the road ahead of us and wandered up the hillside. Within a few miles, we
spotted three deer wading across the river to a large island. Just past this
point a heron stood in the river's shallows. Later we watched three deer
amble along the bank of the river opposite the highway.
This was all way before we arrived at Steamboat Rock State
Park, but somehow it set the stage for a terrific hiking experience. Driving
north from George through Ephrata and Soap Lake, we began to approach the
park, centered on a peninsula jutting into Banks Reservoir, a huge lake more
than 20 miles long.
Steamboat Rock juts prominently into the sky off the west
side of Highway 155. We took our first pictures of the landmark off the edge
of the highway with two fishermen on a boat in the foreground. Most visitors
here come for water-related activities, particularly fishing.
Established in 1972, Steamboat Rock State Park offers camping,
picnicking and boat launch facilities. It also features one main trail which
leads to the top of Steamboat Rock, offering a nearly unlimited choice of
vista points and scenic panorama.
As we wandered across this mostly flat, mesa-like land feature,
twice we viewed groups of whitetail deer on the top or sides of Steamboat
Rock. Yet the highlight of this highland wander occurred near the north end
of the rock. Another visitor beckoned me to a vista point and asked if I
had seen the eagles.
Sure enough, two bald eagles were perched in the tops of trees
several hundred feet below us. One of these was sitting in a nest with three
eaglets. The gentleman who pointed them out had a spotting scope set up and
offered me a look. Wow, the scope brought that eagle up close, along with
the view of a gray chick poking out at the front of the nest! Now, I've viewed
bald eagles before many times. But this sighting was special and unusual
because I was above the eagles and because an eaglet was spotted.
This pair of eagles has apparently been nesting at the same
site for several years. However, the area around and near Banks Lake apparently
receives numerous eagles in the winter months. Northrup Canyon, located a
few miles away from the park, provides the nesting sites for many of the
eagles and features an eagle viewing platform.
Even if it had no wildlife, Steamboat Rock presents an intriguing
hiking destination. The geology holds your attention, especially the many
steep rock walls along the sides of the coulees.
The hike up and across Steamboat Rock is relatively short,
stretching perhaps to three miles round trip. And the elevation gain is only
about 500 feet. Yet hikers should be aware that the route to the top of Steamboat
Rock is quite steep and slippery in places. Care should be taken on this
portion of trail, which only extends about a third of a mile.
Once you ascend the notch and surmount most of the rock layers
forming Steamboat Rock, you can turn left and head generally south or turn
right and proceed to the north tip. There is no officially marked trail on
top. In some places the route is quite obvious, and in others rather obscure.
If you take the trail heading south, it soon splits, one path
leading rather steeply up on the south end of Steamboat Rock. The other trail
leads ahead and with virtually no elevation change, puts you on the west
edge with views out across as well as up and down Banks Lake.
On our visit we took a deer path up the north slope to the
highest level on Steamboat Rock. Staying near the rim, we then circled the
northern section. The trail along the western edge is fainter than that on
the east side.
One of the many interesting sights along the rim is the view
of fishing boats and other watercraft skimming across Banks Lake. At one
point we were looking down almost right on top of one fishing boat. On the
east side the scene includes the camping and picnicking areas of the state
park. Off the northern end lie several large, rocky islands. These features
contrast with the usually steep-sided rock walls typical of the area. Instead,
huge lumps and humps of rock form these large islands in the lake.
Remember there is a $5 parking fee for day visitors to the
park. The camping is by reservation. The really busy season at the park runs
from Memorial Day though Labor Day.
Traffic on the trail at the time of our visit was sporadic.
We encountered about five different couples or small groups on the route.
For fantastic views of the Grand Coulee and the opportunity
to enjoy wildlife, Steamboat Rock State Park is the place to go. Although
the park makes a great destination in spring and fall, we doubt hikers will
enjoy summer's heat. By the way, did I happen to mention the wildflowers?
This trip was the type of experience you just can't quite pin down in print.
Go and see it for yourself.
If you go
What: Steamboat Rock State Park
Where: A 150-mile drive from Yakima. Follow I-82 north, then
I-90 east to Exit 151 and turn north on Highway 283. Follow signs and turns
for Ephrata and Soap Lake, then Grand Coulee Dam. Once you turn off Highway
2 onto Highway 155, it's 16 miles to the park entrance. The trail begins
across the road from the south end of the picnic parking lot.
Come prepared: Bring a hat, sunscreen and water. Boots are
best for this route.
Ron Graham, an elementary school teacher and native of
the Yakima Valley, is an avid outdoorsman who has hiked throughout the Pacific
Northwest.