In the Field - Shi Shi

Sunny Walter's Nature Weekends In the Field

Shi Shi Beach is perhaps the most gorgeous beach in Washington State, reached only by a 4-mile hike (or by kayak). Two miles of open curving beach are bounded on the south by a series of stunningly beautiful seastacks, arches, caves, and tidepools reaching out into the ocean from the Point of Arches. Sunsets behind the arches are often magnificent.

Just north of the point are rows of rocky ridges in the sand leading out to the arches - these are exposed at low tide. Petroleum Creek is about a half mile north of the point; deer and raccoons come down the hill to drink and gulls bath in the fresh water.

At the Point of Arches (south end of Shi Shi Beach), a series of seastacks and arches extends out from the point. Tantalizing tidepools are hidden amongst them; these teem with seastars, sea anenomes, and other sealife.

To access the more diverse tidepools and arches furthest from the beach, be sure to go to Shi Shi Beach when there is a VERY low tide in the early morning (best July thru Sept).

For the best photo ops, walk out to the far arches at least an hour before low tide and work your way back, photographing seastars, urchins and other tidepool creatures. Wear shoes that can get wet; if you become engrossed in the impressive array of photographic subjects, you may be wading through shallow water on the way back.

Petroleum Creek is about a half mile north of Point of Arches. Gulls bath in the fresh water, making great photographic subjects as they flip the water around with their wings. Lie in the sand for a good low photo angle on their antics. Watch for various seabirds on the sea stacks and on the beach. Raccoons are said to be frequent visitors, but I have not seen one in 8 trips. Sea otters can be found in the kelp around the seastacks, but usually only by kayak.

Additional photogenic seastacks and tidepools are located at the north end of the beach (where the trail comes down from the bluff). Low tilted rock formations and tide pools with high concentrations of sea life are best at -1.0 or lower tide. Cormorants often roost on the seastacks to let their wings dry. You can usually photograph at this location on your way to or from Shi Shi if you make the trip during the morning low tide. It also makes a good day-trip destination.

WINTER: Winter is said to be a great time for ocean storm photography; however, I have never been to Shi Shi Beach at that time.

Take any ferry across Puget Sound, then drive across the Hood Canal Bridge to Port Angeles, stopping at the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center to get permits. Then take US 101 west to Sappho, turn right (north) on SR 113 to Clallam Bay and west on SR 112 to Neah Bay (Makah Tribal Lands). Follow the signs at the west end of town to Ocean Beaches. Before reaching the tribal center, take a left over a bridge toward Hobuck Beach. Follow the road for approximately four miles (just past the blue-gated old trailhead). The new trailhead (opened summer of 2003) is clearly marked. The parking lot is for day-use only. Overnighters can park for $10 a night at the home of Donna Wilkie about 1/4 mile back toward Neah Bay; longer stays are discounted. Information: 360-645-2554.

The first mile of trail is a meandering flat cedar-planked walkway -- recently constructed by the Makah Tribe with various grant moneys; the second mile or so is still a flat muddy trail that takes you to the Olympic National Park boundary and fee station. After the trail switchbacks down to the beach (good destination for day trips), you still have a 1.8-mile flat beach walk south to the Point of Arches.

Note: Access by kayak is tricky and should be attempted only by experienced kayakers.

SPECIAL PASSES OR FEES:
Allow time to pick up group backcountry camping permits and animal-proof food containers (both required) at Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center south of Port Angeles (they are open Friday afternoon and Saturday morning).

CAMPING:
This best done as a backpack -- bring all food and water (or filter or boil water from Petroleum Creek). Remember that an extreme low tide in the morning means an extreme high tide at night -- usually before midnight. Camp VERY high on the beach near Point of Arches -- above the high tide mark. Drift logs are piled up between the beach and the sloping forest; get up near the logs. In the winter, pitch your tent up in the trees instead of on the beach.